HOW OFTEN SHOULD I REPLACE THE COOLANT?

Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type (G12), mixture, and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap. Excess air in the system can cause internal pressure to rise and damage the system.

HOW LONG WILL THE HOSES LAST?

Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses on your Volkswagen or Audi - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem. All hoses should be replaced at least every four years.

CAN I USE AFTERMARKET THERMOSTATS?

Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

CAN I USE AFTERMARKET RADIATOR CAPS?

Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Again, do not substitute under any circumstances.

WHAT KIND OF MAINTENANCE DOES MY COOLANT SYSTEM NEED?

Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at factory recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. It's always a good idea to check the belts when you're working on any coolant system components.

HOW LONG WILL MY WATER PUMP LAST?

Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced. Watch for signs of overheating - you don't want to break down in the hot sun when your water pump fails.

Some Audi's and VW's come from the factory with a plastic impeller water pump, be sure when this is replaced to use a metal impeller replacement, as this will ensure extended use.

WHAT MAINTENANCE ITEMS SHOULD I BE AWARE OF?

Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your Volkswagen's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention. Watch out for unexplained high temperatures.

HOW DO I CHECK THE TEMPERATURE SENSORS?

Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to Volkswagen experts who have the proper equipment and diagrams.

MY VW/AUDI IS RUNNING A LITTLE HOT, WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your Volkswagen's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

WHAT GRADE OF GASOLINE SHOULD I USE IN MY SUBARU?

Due to a common problem with the Check Engine light illuminating for the knock sensor because of poor fuel or too low of an octane, we recommend at least a mid-grade gasoline for non-turbo, and premium-grade fuel for turbo applications.

MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON ONE DAY AND TURNS OF THE NEXT, WHY?

Many of the times our customers bring in their Subarus, it's due the check engine light.

The most common reason for it to illuminate and then not the following day is due to the knock sensor. The knock sensor can be overly sensitive and detect knock even when there is none. If knock is detected the ECU will increase fuel injector pulses (to get a richer fuel/air mixture) and retard ignition timing to reduce knock, this is referred to as "anti-knock" mode. Lean mixtures and overly advanced ignition timing are the main causes of knock along with fuel that has too low of an octane rating.

I HEAR A CLICKING SOUND WHEN I TURN TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT, WHAT'S WRONG?

Subarus, like most cars, have CV Axles (Constant Velocity Axles) which have rubber boots that keep the CV joints lubricated with grease. The unfortunate thing about Subarus is that while most cars only have two CV joints, Subarus mostly have four.

With CV joints rotating at the speed of your wheel and moving up, down, and every direction you turn, the joint needs to have constant lubrication or friction will take over. If your CV boot tears, the grease is expelled and then friction from use and dirt will cause the joint to wear down and make popping, clicking noises, and break over time.

MY SUBARU OVERHEATS SOMETIMES WHEN I DRIVE FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME.

In 1996, on the 2.5l engine, Subaru used a composite type head gasket similar in construction to the head gaskets found in the Subaru Legacy & Impreza 2.2l engine. Starting in 1997 and used through 2002, Subaru began to use a multi layer steel shim head gasket with a graphite type outer film. This is where the problem began. You may see oil or coolant leaking from the head gasket. Or you may smell exhaust fumes from the coolant reservoir.

This is a very common Subaru problem. Do not let you vehicle overheat as this may cause further issues.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I ROTATE MY SUBARU'S TIRES?

In an effort to further reduce uneven tire wear and prolong tire life, the tire rotation pattern has recently been changed for non-directional tires. To maximize the life of each tire and ensure that the tires wear uniformly, it is best to rotate the tires every 7,500 miles (12,000 km).

SUBARUS HAVE A TENDENCY TO LEAK OIL.

Subaru's engines, due to their unique design, commonly have oil leaks from the front Camshaft and Crankshaft Seals. These seals, which are situated behind a plastic timing belt cover, begin to leak oil which then tends to leak onto the timing belt itself. Oil begins to deteriorate rubber components, such as the timing belt, over time. This can lead to the timing belt breaking.

MY SUBARU IDLES ERRATICALLY (RPM'S UP AND DOWN) AND SOMETIMES STALLS.

Many times we have run into this problem and while at first glance it would seem to be the Idle Air Control Valve, in some cases it's not. If the engine idles up and then down to below 500 rpm after the car has warmed up to operating temperature, it could be your oxygen sensor not functioning properly.

Although in most cases the check engine light will illuminate when the oxygen sensor is not functioning properly, there are these occurrences without the check engine light being on.

MY SUBARU RUNS ROUGH AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON.

With misfire code(s) P0301, P0302, P0303, and/or P0304 there is the possibility that the ignition coil and/or high-tension cables could be the cause. Inspect the cables for cracks in the boot of the end of the cable.

A new, revised cable design is available.

I FEEL A JERKING OR A BINDING WHEN I TURN AT LOW SPEEDS.

If the car feels like it doesn't want to turn and you feel a binding or a shudder, then it's likely the MPT clutches (Multi Plate Transfer) located in the extension case together with the bearing and rear drive shaft of the transmission. If you have a manual transmission, a viscous coupler located in the same area does the same thing as the MPT clutches, which is that it transfers the power to the rear wheels. If a diagnosis finds that the viscous coupler has failed, a replacement will be needed to allow your vehicle to turn smoothly.

Many times it is an outside influence that is the cause, i.e. Tires! Be sure to check that all of the tires have the same wear and are the same size and make.

SUBARU OF AMERICA'S POLICY REGARDING THE USE OF COOLANT FLUSHING MACHINES AND/OR COOLANT-SYSTEM FLUSHING AGENTS.

Subaru does not recommend the use of any flushing machine or flushing agent under any circumstances.

If a flushing machine has been used to service other brand vehicles with copper radiators, a chemical reaction can occur between the copper ions and the Subaru Genuine Coolant. This could also cause future clogging of the radiator. If a flushing machine is dedicated to only Subaru vehicles, it is still not recommended as there is no way to know that the coolants being removed and processed through the machine during servicing are/were exclusively Subaru Genuine Coolant.

HELP! MY TRANSMISSION SHIFTS IRREGULARLY!

If your transmission is shifting irregulary and the D (Drive light) or S (Sport light) on the dash is flashing, your transmission control computer is malfunctioning. In some cases the computer will lock the shift lever into park and you will not be able to release it and put the car into drive.

This is an easy unit to replace and we have them in stock and readily available.

HELP! MY ACCORD ODOMETER STOPPED WORKING!

If the odometer in your Honda Accord has stopped turning and has a lot of 9's at the end, your odometer gear is hung up on the maintenance reminder switch.

Here's an easy fix: simply push the maintenance reminder reset button and hold it down while you drive a couple of miles. This will allow the odometer to proceed past the point where it likes to hang.

MY HONDA RADIO IS SAYING "CODE." WHY?

If your car loses power and you have an anti-theft radio, it will show "CODE" after the power is restored. The code is a sequence of numbers you punch in using the preset buttons.

To get this code, you will need the serial number off the top of your radio (you have to pull the radio out to see the numbers). Then, call your local Honda dealer and they can get you the code in about 30 seconds. You may have to bring your title to them to prove you are the owner of the vehicle.

SOMETIMES MY CAR STARTS, SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T

Tuck this one in the back of your memory. Someday you will help someone out and look like a genius.

If your Honda likes to start sometimes but not others (especially if the interior of the car is really warm) it is always the main relay. The main relay is really easy to replace and we have them in stock.

MY HONDA DOESN'T START OR SOMETIMES QUITS ON ME AND THEN RESTARTS A FEW MINUTES LATER!

If you are having problems with your Honda automobile quitting and then starting again . . . a few minutes later or maybe even the next day . . . you have a bad igniter.

On most Hondas, igniters are an internal part in thedistributor. Because the igniter is very expensive, it is usually cheaper to get another distributor.

MY FUEL ECONOMY IS REALLY BAD & THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON RANDOMLY. WHAT CAN I DO?

The most common problem with low gas mileage is a defective O2 (Oxygen) Sensor. The Oxygen sensor reads the air content in the exhaust after combustion and will adjust the amount of fuel used.

A bad O2 sensor will allow the engine to use the maximum amount of fuel. This will cause terrible gas mileage as well as negatively impact performance.

MY HONDA'S IDLE GOES UP & DOWN: WHAT CAN I DO?

Hondas are notorious for having problems with the idle air control valve. When your engine is cold or when an accessory like the air conditioning is running, your Honda's idle air control valve should open & kick up the rpm's. But when the control valve malfunctions, it opens & closes. This causes the idle to go up & down.

The only way to fix the problem is to replace the unit.

MY HONDA'S WINDOW GOES UP & DOWN REALLY SLOW: IT'S STUCK!

Part of the problem with windows going up & down slowly is the run channel (what the window slides in) needs to be lubricated. This is a rubber part, so don't use a petroleum-based product -- this causes the rubber to swell and will make the problem even worse.

What you need is silicone paste -- put it in the channel where the window slides and it should help you considerably.

MY HONDA HAS A HUMMING NOISE IN THE REAR AND SOMETIMES SHUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.

Honda's are known to have an issue as they get older with a humming fuel pump. When you hear the humming coming from the rear of the car, you most likely have a fuel pump that is going to fail on you.

Additionally, you should always replace the fuel filter along with the pump.

MY TAIL-LIGHTS DON'T WORK AND THE INSTRUMENT LIGHTS ARE OUT, BUT ALL THE FUSES ARE GOOD. WHAT'S WRONG?

Hondas have integrated the taillights and the instrument lights with the dimmer switch on the dash. We have run into several instances where the switch has failed and the tail-lights have gone out. This can drive people to buying new bulbs and fuses, without solving the main issue.